What is it about the Kimberley?
We’ve been off the bitumen for 8 days now and I’ve been waiting for the moment to start this story. That moment came this morning at sunrise as we were sitting on a ridge overlooking our camp at Mornington on the Leopold ranges.
As we sat in silence watching the sun illuminate the hills and ranges I realized why I am here.
The colour, ever-changing as the sun burns across the sky, painting in constantly evolving hews, changing deep purples to orange glows. The silence, the spectacular geology. The sounds of the birds. No need to check the watch because you don’t have to be anywhere at anytime. Memories of the crackling campfire and sharing it all with a bunch of good-hearted blokes. Everyday has its challenges and every day has a new vista of incredible scenery and places to go.
As I begin this reflection, we are in the middle of the Gibb River Road, about 300 km from Kununurra with about another 300 to go in a south west direction towards Derby. Mornington is pretty close to “the middle of nowhere” being a 100 km drive east off the main Gibb Road. The first 70 km were fine, averaging 60 – 70 km/hr, but the last 30 km took an hour, winding through dry creek beds and over numerous rocky outcrops.
We have reflected on what constitutes “must takes” for such a trip and have arrived at an interesting list. Reading through this list might help you better understand what this trip is all about. Number one on my list is a bunch of like – minded souls to share the experience with. They must like walking; they need a hearty laugh to be used when sitting around the campfire at the end of the day. They must function as a team to share the challenges and obstacles of such an adventure. This group of 5 gentlemen I find myself with fits the bill admirably.
More “must-takes” include; tyre plug puncture repair kit – we’ve used it on 3 tyres already, video and still cameras (digital), portable speaker system for those lighter moments at the end of the day, stout walking sticks hewn from Kununurra wattle (I viewed mine with suspicion on the first day, but won’t go anywhere without it now!), a good quiet generator (or even better – solar) and a few Engel fridges, a sturdy camper trailer, 2 vehicles, UHF radios to communicate between the vehicles ( to warn of stock on the roads or to plan the next rest break), a couple of cast iron camp ovens for roasts and scones on the hot coals, a fast burning gas bottle with burner on top, plenty of ratchet tie down straps, ear plugs in case you have brought a snorer with you!, warm clothing for the occasional chilly night.
Our plan was to get a big taste of the Kimberley over a four week time period. We planned to drive straight to Kununurra in 3 days, spend a few days looking around Kununurra and a day on the Lower Ord River with Greg “Hairy Dog” Harman, then about two weeks savouring the delights of the Gibb River Road and finally, five days R&R up at Kooljaman at Cape Leveque.
This plan would see us travel a touch over 7,000km during the four weeks.
A Day On The Lower Ord With Hairy Dog
Greg “Hairy Dog” Harman picked us up at our Kununurra Caravan Park at 6:30am. He calmly drove us across the raging waters at Ivanhoe Crossing and on to his camp on the lower Ord River. From there it was a 1-hour trip downstream in his boat, interrupted by a stop to throw the cast-net for live bait. Greg explained that the June water temperature was too cold for lure fishing.
Hairy Dog was quite a character. He started out very quiet as he was probably assessing what kind of yobbos he was stuck with for the day, but gradually he warmed to our irresistible charm. He provided expert tuition for those of us new to baitcasters and barra live-bait fishing and his accounts of famous clients he has taken down the river were entertaining. Hairy Dog’s one word summation of one or two famous outdoor celebrities (he wasn’t fond of them) was concise and left no doubt!
The special moment came late in the morning on the rising tide. Something was peeling a little line from my reel. I remembered Hairy Dog’s advice and let it run a bit further. After 3 or 4 metres had peeled off I engaged the drag and struck. No catfish here as a big splash erupted not far from the boat. Three times during the ensuing fight old Hairy Dog saved me from certain defeat. Twice he manoeuvred the big (apparently) fish off some snags. Finally he glanced over the side at a big flash of silver and remarked that I should be fairly happy with this one.
As my heart thumped loudly in my chest Hairy Dog leant over the side, asked one of us to hold the back of his shorts and then heaved a massive 116cm barra gently into the boat. There was a fair bit of shouting and cheering from my mates, I just stood in quiet awe of the moment, the only sound emanating from me was that of my knees knocking together!
What a magnificent fish! She was quickly photographed then gently lowered over the side and dragged through the water for a few seconds before she swam off with a few flicks of her powerful tail.
The rest of the day was a pleasant tour of the lower Ord. Dozens of crocs, brolgas, kangaroos and beautiful scenery. Greg’s wife Jane had packed a wonderful lunch for us, which we enjoyed under the shade of a few trees on a quiet stretch of riverbank.
By around 4:30pm after a long and enjoyable day Hairy Dog delivered us satisfied and exhausted back to our caravan park. A great day!
El Questro
About 80 kilometres west of Kununurra you turn off the bitumen onto the mighty Gibb River Road. And about an hour down the track you will find El Questro. The Swinging Arm bar is a good place for a cold beer at sunset. It was here I sat with 3 of my fellow travellers awaiting the arrival of the fifth member of our party.
Rob flew up from Perth six days after we left. His dedication to wife and young family saw him plan a condensed version of our trip to minimise his time away from those who pine for him! The rest of us had secured four weeks leave of absence from our lovely wives and families.
El Questro offers a range of accommodation experiences from the $1500 per night Chamberlain suite at the main resort to chalets, permanent tents and campsites at the “township” on the banks of the Pentecost River. We elected for a more private camp setting, on the banks of the river a few kilometres west of the township. We pitched camp under large and shady trees on a sandy site right on the riverside. We could just get a glimpse of our nearest neighbour’s lights in the evening.
It was here we were to base ourselves for several days and drive out to do a number of the spectacular walks in the area.
After a quick soak in the warm and pleasant waters of Zebedee Springs,
we headed back to camp for lunch and a beer, then a rest during the heat of the afternoon. Later during that warm afternoon, Kevin wandered off downstream.
A few minutes later we heard him yell to us from the distance and we rushed urgently down the riverbank to find him. Had he fallen and injured himself? Was he having an issue with one of the local Brahman bulls? As we scrambled around the bend and down the riverbank we came upon an amazing and unexpected sight. Here was a side stream running off the river and some previous campers had taken the time to construct a “soak-tub” out of smooth rocks in the middle of the stream. There was Kevin, sitting up to his neck in the refreshing water with a big grin on his face! Off came the boots and clothes and we jumped in to join him.
The next morning we were up early to beat the heat. We drove the few kilometres across to the start of the El Questro Gorge walk. The full walk is 3.5 km each way with a suggested duration of 2.5 hours each way. Most of the walk is shaded, winding along a deep, narrow gorge surrounded by high cliffs. Tropical vegetation and crystal clear pools are a highlight. The gorge has been cut into the 1800 million year old King Leopold sandstone. A lot of clambering over large boulders makes the second half of this walk moderately difficult and challenging. We were constantly surprised by ill-prepared walkers turning back halfway. Many were wearing thongs or sandals and some didn’t seem to appreciate the need to be adequately prepared. At this point it is worth noting on the two most valuable possessions on this walk were a good pair of walking boots and the walking stick Kevin had made for me in Kununurra. It helped when clambering over the many boulders, both for pushing up with and for maintaining balance. The stick also served to pull my companions up several of the large boulders we needed to climb over.
After a tough (but shaded) two hour walk, we were rewarded with a refreshing swim in the deep Mac Micking Pool, fed by a gushing waterfall.
Five hours after we set off, we arrived back at the cars, pleasantly weary and inspired by the experience.
That night we sat around the campfire reliving the highlights of the past few days whilst a big juicy roast crackled away in the camp oven.
Next morning we were up early again to beat the heat. We had planned to do the challenging Champagne Springs walk which is signposted as a 9.6km, 6 hour walk of moderate to difficult level. “This is a very difficult and challenging walk and must not be attempted after 11am and only by physically fit and capable walkers”. Gosh! How was a bunch of old geriatrics like us going to handle it?
It proved to be a testing physical challenge that our party rose to. Old grumpy Kevin put in a scorching final quarter that saw us cut 30 minutes off our return journey! We arrived back at the vehicles hot, aching, thirsty and pleasantly exuberant.
On to Mount Barnett
After a most enjoyable few days exploring the El Questro area, it was time to head deeper into the Gibb River Road. Our plan was to travel approximately 300 km to Mount Barnett, then spend a day or two exploring the nearby Manning Gorge.
We found the condition of the road fairly pleasing for most of the way. We were often cruising at 80 kmh. Occasionally we would hit some more corrugated ground and would slow down below 50 kmh for a while. The main crossing of the Pentecost whilst wide, was only half way up the wheels. The scenery of the surrounding ranges was spectacular.
After 2 and a half hours and almost 200km all seemed to be going well. Suddenly a loud pop and a hissing sound told us we had a problem. The first of several punctures in my wonderful, near new Coopers AT off-road tyres! In every case small sharp stones lodged in between the tread lugs and penetrated the tyre. I was
not impressed! Fortunately, Steve had his puncture plug repair kit and he put this to use several times over the next few days.
I was quite disappointed with the run of luck these tyres gave me (upon reflection – maybe driver error). I was running them at 35 pounds (a few pounds lower than usual) to help avoid such problems, but to no avail. Poor old Steve did a sterling job inserting many plugs and pumping up tyres!
Finally a hot and tired team of grumpy old men arrived at Mount Barnett station late in the afternoon. Here we filled the petrol tanks and set up camp for 2 nights at Lower Manning Gorge.
After a cool night, we arose to another cloudless Kimberley day. Gill served up bacon and eggs and then we lazed around for an hour or two. Late in the morning we did the walk to Upper Manning Gorge. A pleasant, but warm one-hour journey, which rewarded us with another spectacular view and a wonderful swim.
Author’s Note:
The Grumpy Old Men On Tour stories are from a set of trips beginning in 2005.
